1/16/09
Hello everyone!
As many of you already know, I have finally arrived in Morocco! The internet here is not reliable, even when it is available, so I have henceforth given up updating this blog directly. I think typing it ahead of time and copying and pasting when I can is the best strategy. So without much more preamble, I apologize for not getting this up sooner. My life here has flown by. I cannot believe it has been more than a week already since I left the U.S.A.
Please allow me a brief recap of what I have been doing. Once I catch up to the present I will try to stay as current as possible.
When we first arrived we were all exhausted, and to a certain extent I am sure we still are! It was nice to finally meet our new friends for the semester. In the hotel I felt like I was a Freshman all over again. I was in a new place, away from my family, meeting new friends, traveling in groups of 10 or more, I think you get the pattern. Everyone in our program is wonderful. A lot of people had the same worries I had, which made me feel less self conscious.
The next day we started our excursions. The first place we visited was a kind of cluster of artisans. I do not know how to compare it, because I have never seen anything like it in the U.S. It is where different artisans (Mainly potters) make and sell their products. So there are small store fronts as well as the Potter. We got to go in back and see a man make a tajine by hand. (A tajine is a traditional dish used in Moroccan cooking, the type of food served in it is also called tajine.) Quietly he sat in front of his wheel as dry, chalky sounds came from below where his foot expertly turned the potter’s wheel. A loud smack resounded as he threw on a fresh bit of clay. As the wheel turned, our group became silent in awe of the mystery taking place before us. Magically, this man produced a tajine out of a shapeless mass. Morocco is a magical place. Afterward he showed a few people in the group how to do it too. (Nobody’s was as good as his though!)
We then made our way to the Chellah, which is a necropolis for some saints, as well as the ancient ruins of the king’s garden. You pay a small fee and you can walk around (even on the rocks and broken walls!). I am told it is very beautiful in the Summer because the flowers are all blooming. For now, though, I was quite content with the shade of orange trees and the smell of fresh grass. Looking over the horizon, there were hundreds of cranes swooping back and forth. One of our professors who came on the trip said that Cranes are monogamous. A romantic thought for a peaceful setting.
I had noticed a lot of cats in the streets. My first instinct is to try and pet them (like I would do in River West) but here they are much scrappier. You will be wandering the streets, and turn a corner and a dirty cat will be sitting on a deteriorating wall. They have a kind of beautiful toughness about them. Anyhow, at the Chellah, I counted at least 20 of them. At one point a man brought them some tiny fish to eat, and they all stampeded up the stairs. Whoever said cats cannot be herded just didn’t have the proper motivator.
A few days later the Amideast students had an activity to help us become more accustomed to Rabat. “Survivor Rabat” included a type of scavenger hunt where we had to take a taxi and a bus at least once. My partner and I strayed a bit from the activity and explored. (I think that was the point really) We visited the Mausoleum of Hassan II, the former king. There are mounted guards, in full regalia, outside the gates.
Afterwards we walked south(ish) to the Casbah and my partner and I were had. We both knew the guy was a hustler, but we didn’t know how to get out of it! I feel like it was my fault because I got so excited that I was having a conversation in French and I actually knew what was being said. He gave us a tour of the Casbah and took our photos. I learned some interesting facts about the Casbah, though, so that made it worthwhile. We learned that now there are mostly Europeans living there for weekends every now and then, but it used to be many different people. There were separate entrances for the Muslim, Spanish and Portuguese people. Most other places are painted many different colors but the Casbah is only blue and white because it is easier to look at than pure white wash in the bright sun. Apparently the insects don’t like the blue color either, but I haven’t been able to verify that yet. There are little bits of metal sticking out of the walls, and I was told they were for Portuguese pirates to climb up the sides of buildings and see if any ships were coming to harbor. Once on the terrace I got my first real view of the Atlantic Ocean. The grey-blue sweeping out to meet the sky on the horizon was very calming. I NEVER would have thought that my first real view of the Atlantic Ocean would have been on the East side of it!
We also went to a small souk (market place) and saw a lot of things I had never seen before. I saw a cow head cut in half length-wise and a wall of chickens that you could choose from. (Live of course) Piles of spices and tiny mounds of different herbs filled the counters of some vendors, while still others had glass cases filled with savory looking pastries. Vendors call after you, shouting the specials and hoping to attract your attention.
I just moved in with my host family tonight! I was terrified at first. I did not know what exactly to expect, even though we had plenty of time in orientation. My host family is so wonderful to me. My host older sister speaks English a bit, and all of them speak French except my host grandmother. So I have been getting along fine. They are all very welcoming and it seems the Moroccan way with their family is to sit closely and touch more than Americans do. Instead of having culture shock, though, I must say that it made me feel comforted. My host mother had her hand on my leg in the taxi, reassuring me that everything would be ok. I offered to help clean up after dinner, but she said that tonight I am a guest. Tomorrow you can help cook! (I don’t know how to cook! Ah!)
I did have a bit of culture shock at first. They use slippers to walk around on all non carpeted surfaces, and I am still getting accustomed to taking them off and putting them on at the end of the carpet. (I am told that it is because people pray on these same carpets.) Also, it is much cleaner if you do this! I had couscous for the first time tonight! It was quite good, all except one vegetable that tasted like squash. I had to concentrate really hard not to gag. But I have liked all the food at the restaurants so far, so at least I am not picky about most of what I eat. And my host mother is quite wonderful. There is definitely a separation of genders, but there is still a fondness that exists. The women all asked me how many sisters I had. An odd way to phrase the question, but I think it is a product of the women’s culture.
They were all very nice to me, but it took me a while to open up. At dinner I was feeling shy and unsure of myself. My host sister kept saying to me, eat! Eat! At one point she turned to me and asked “What’s wrong with you?” I said I was tired, but I couldn’t help but laugh to myself about the question, because I clearly gave her some signal that something was wrong, even though I still don’t know what it was! I felt weepy all night until I just made myself open up a little bit. I offered to show them my photos, and it helped to talk about home a bit. Afterwards it was time for bed, and here I am! Well, I am tired and in my new bed in my new room. So I am going to sleep. For now, B’Slahma!
Hello everyone!
As many of you already know, I have finally arrived in Morocco! The internet here is not reliable, even when it is available, so I have henceforth given up updating this blog directly. I think typing it ahead of time and copying and pasting when I can is the best strategy. So without much more preamble, I apologize for not getting this up sooner. My life here has flown by. I cannot believe it has been more than a week already since I left the U.S.A.
Please allow me a brief recap of what I have been doing. Once I catch up to the present I will try to stay as current as possible.
When we first arrived we were all exhausted, and to a certain extent I am sure we still are! It was nice to finally meet our new friends for the semester. In the hotel I felt like I was a Freshman all over again. I was in a new place, away from my family, meeting new friends, traveling in groups of 10 or more, I think you get the pattern. Everyone in our program is wonderful. A lot of people had the same worries I had, which made me feel less self conscious.
The next day we started our excursions. The first place we visited was a kind of cluster of artisans. I do not know how to compare it, because I have never seen anything like it in the U.S. It is where different artisans (Mainly potters) make and sell their products. So there are small store fronts as well as the Potter. We got to go in back and see a man make a tajine by hand. (A tajine is a traditional dish used in Moroccan cooking, the type of food served in it is also called tajine.) Quietly he sat in front of his wheel as dry, chalky sounds came from below where his foot expertly turned the potter’s wheel. A loud smack resounded as he threw on a fresh bit of clay. As the wheel turned, our group became silent in awe of the mystery taking place before us. Magically, this man produced a tajine out of a shapeless mass. Morocco is a magical place. Afterward he showed a few people in the group how to do it too. (Nobody’s was as good as his though!)
We then made our way to the Chellah, which is a necropolis for some saints, as well as the ancient ruins of the king’s garden. You pay a small fee and you can walk around (even on the rocks and broken walls!). I am told it is very beautiful in the Summer because the flowers are all blooming. For now, though, I was quite content with the shade of orange trees and the smell of fresh grass. Looking over the horizon, there were hundreds of cranes swooping back and forth. One of our professors who came on the trip said that Cranes are monogamous. A romantic thought for a peaceful setting.
I had noticed a lot of cats in the streets. My first instinct is to try and pet them (like I would do in River West) but here they are much scrappier. You will be wandering the streets, and turn a corner and a dirty cat will be sitting on a deteriorating wall. They have a kind of beautiful toughness about them. Anyhow, at the Chellah, I counted at least 20 of them. At one point a man brought them some tiny fish to eat, and they all stampeded up the stairs. Whoever said cats cannot be herded just didn’t have the proper motivator.
A few days later the Amideast students had an activity to help us become more accustomed to Rabat. “Survivor Rabat” included a type of scavenger hunt where we had to take a taxi and a bus at least once. My partner and I strayed a bit from the activity and explored. (I think that was the point really) We visited the Mausoleum of Hassan II, the former king. There are mounted guards, in full regalia, outside the gates.
Afterwards we walked south(ish) to the Casbah and my partner and I were had. We both knew the guy was a hustler, but we didn’t know how to get out of it! I feel like it was my fault because I got so excited that I was having a conversation in French and I actually knew what was being said. He gave us a tour of the Casbah and took our photos. I learned some interesting facts about the Casbah, though, so that made it worthwhile. We learned that now there are mostly Europeans living there for weekends every now and then, but it used to be many different people. There were separate entrances for the Muslim, Spanish and Portuguese people. Most other places are painted many different colors but the Casbah is only blue and white because it is easier to look at than pure white wash in the bright sun. Apparently the insects don’t like the blue color either, but I haven’t been able to verify that yet. There are little bits of metal sticking out of the walls, and I was told they were for Portuguese pirates to climb up the sides of buildings and see if any ships were coming to harbor. Once on the terrace I got my first real view of the Atlantic Ocean. The grey-blue sweeping out to meet the sky on the horizon was very calming. I NEVER would have thought that my first real view of the Atlantic Ocean would have been on the East side of it!
We also went to a small souk (market place) and saw a lot of things I had never seen before. I saw a cow head cut in half length-wise and a wall of chickens that you could choose from. (Live of course) Piles of spices and tiny mounds of different herbs filled the counters of some vendors, while still others had glass cases filled with savory looking pastries. Vendors call after you, shouting the specials and hoping to attract your attention.
I just moved in with my host family tonight! I was terrified at first. I did not know what exactly to expect, even though we had plenty of time in orientation. My host family is so wonderful to me. My host older sister speaks English a bit, and all of them speak French except my host grandmother. So I have been getting along fine. They are all very welcoming and it seems the Moroccan way with their family is to sit closely and touch more than Americans do. Instead of having culture shock, though, I must say that it made me feel comforted. My host mother had her hand on my leg in the taxi, reassuring me that everything would be ok. I offered to help clean up after dinner, but she said that tonight I am a guest. Tomorrow you can help cook! (I don’t know how to cook! Ah!)
I did have a bit of culture shock at first. They use slippers to walk around on all non carpeted surfaces, and I am still getting accustomed to taking them off and putting them on at the end of the carpet. (I am told that it is because people pray on these same carpets.) Also, it is much cleaner if you do this! I had couscous for the first time tonight! It was quite good, all except one vegetable that tasted like squash. I had to concentrate really hard not to gag. But I have liked all the food at the restaurants so far, so at least I am not picky about most of what I eat. And my host mother is quite wonderful. There is definitely a separation of genders, but there is still a fondness that exists. The women all asked me how many sisters I had. An odd way to phrase the question, but I think it is a product of the women’s culture.
They were all very nice to me, but it took me a while to open up. At dinner I was feeling shy and unsure of myself. My host sister kept saying to me, eat! Eat! At one point she turned to me and asked “What’s wrong with you?” I said I was tired, but I couldn’t help but laugh to myself about the question, because I clearly gave her some signal that something was wrong, even though I still don’t know what it was! I felt weepy all night until I just made myself open up a little bit. I offered to show them my photos, and it helped to talk about home a bit. Afterwards it was time for bed, and here I am! Well, I am tired and in my new bed in my new room. So I am going to sleep. For now, B’Slahma!
3 comments:
Oh Laura, I am SO exited for you! It sounds like you're having a great time - I know you'll make the most if it - you always do!
I wish you luck with everything (not that you'll need it, it's already in your nature!).
I'm so glad you're keeping a blog; it will be priceless in time!
Happy Travels! I'll be thinking of you!
Riff raff street rat! I don't buy that! If only they'd look closer...
Sorry, it just popped into my head as I was reading about the market place. Laura your stories from the first week are dazzling. You write really well! I feel like I am touring around crumbling walls watching guardian cats patrol a magic city. You truly are on an adventure! I'm so excited for you!
I don't really see how that fake tour guide was all that fake. Perhaps he didn't have a tour guide license , because he didn't go to tour guide college... But he was like a street performer, right?
Keep us posted!
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